Chinese swing guard project
Moderators: Bill DeShivs, The Motley Crew
Forum rules
There are a few things you should know before posting in these forums. If you are a new user, please click here and read carefully. Thanks a lot!
There are a few things you should know before posting in these forums. If you are a new user, please click here and read carefully. Thanks a lot!
Chinese swing guard project
I’ve decided to replace the scales on the Chinese swing guard I got a few weeks ago.
I think I will cut/grind/peen the back spring pin so it is covered by the new scales. Screws (maybe) for the other pins.
The recess in the scale for the button side looks a little challenging.
Any thoughts on the best way to cut/drill/carve that recess? And the sequence: hole first, or recess first, or pin holes first? Thanks!
I think I will cut/grind/peen the back spring pin so it is covered by the new scales. Screws (maybe) for the other pins.
The recess in the scale for the button side looks a little challenging.
Any thoughts on the best way to cut/drill/carve that recess? And the sequence: hole first, or recess first, or pin holes first? Thanks!
- Attachments
-
- DCCD3831-E745-413F-97FE-917FC10FC25A.jpeg (505.64 KiB) Viewed 12519 times
Last edited by LD57 on Sat Sep 24, 2022 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Bill DeShivs
- Yes.
- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 2:50 pm
- Location: In de lan o' cotton
- Contact:
Re: Some advice needed
Since the knife is screwed together, why not just peen the pins? You can easily get to both sides.
You need to make the handle out of a material that will hold up in thin sections-wood probably won't hold up.
I would cut the recess first, then the button hole. I would use a mill, but since you probably don't have one, the recess can be carefully cut with a Dremel or flexible shaft machine.
You need to make the handle out of a material that will hold up in thin sections-wood probably won't hold up.
I would cut the recess first, then the button hole. I would use a mill, but since you probably don't have one, the recess can be carefully cut with a Dremel or flexible shaft machine.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: Some advice needed
A few examples of mine below.
Here's how I do it-
Start with an oversized piece of handle material so you have extra all the way around.
Determine where you want the button hole, making sure that there will be a little extra handle material at the top end of the scale, maybe around 1/8" or 3/16".
Drill the hole for the button.
Measure how long and wide the cavity needs to be in the scale for the release mechanism.
Then what I do is drill out as much of the cavity as possible, being very careful not to go all the way through. And then I finish the cavity by using a dremel chainsaw sharpening bit (454 or 455) in my drill press at the highest speed to "mill" out the cavity, bringing the bit down onto the scale and moving the scale forward and back along the bit. This is a slow process because only a little material can be removed at a time.
When the cavity is done and the scale fits over the release mechanism with the bolsters removed from the liners, I replace the bolsters and then remove the extra handle material at the top of the scale little by little until I get a good fit with the button in the hole and the the scale between the bolsters.
Then I hold the scale in place on the liner with a spring clamp and mark the location for one of the pin/post holes. Then I remove the scale from the liner and drill that pin/post hole. Then I use a post or screw with a nut to secure the scale in place on the liner using the hole I just drilled and then drill the other holes using the liner as a drilling template. I do it this way so that all the holes line up perfectly.
And then I finish shaping the scale. Sometimes I have to file the inside circumference of the button hole with a round file to produce the perfect amount of clearance for the button to go up and down without rubbing. And that's it.
But that's my way. Since the cavity isn't likely going to be seen by anybody, one could always use a hand-held dremel and grind out the cavity with grinding bits or even a cutting wheel. It won't look refined, but it will still work.
These were done in G10. There were no bolsters on these knives, so fitting between the buttons and bolsters was not an issue. But I've used the method described above on several switchblades with bolsters. But in each case I always start with the button hole and work outward from there.
Here's how I do it-
Start with an oversized piece of handle material so you have extra all the way around.
Determine where you want the button hole, making sure that there will be a little extra handle material at the top end of the scale, maybe around 1/8" or 3/16".
Drill the hole for the button.
Measure how long and wide the cavity needs to be in the scale for the release mechanism.
Then what I do is drill out as much of the cavity as possible, being very careful not to go all the way through. And then I finish the cavity by using a dremel chainsaw sharpening bit (454 or 455) in my drill press at the highest speed to "mill" out the cavity, bringing the bit down onto the scale and moving the scale forward and back along the bit. This is a slow process because only a little material can be removed at a time.
When the cavity is done and the scale fits over the release mechanism with the bolsters removed from the liners, I replace the bolsters and then remove the extra handle material at the top of the scale little by little until I get a good fit with the button in the hole and the the scale between the bolsters.
Then I hold the scale in place on the liner with a spring clamp and mark the location for one of the pin/post holes. Then I remove the scale from the liner and drill that pin/post hole. Then I use a post or screw with a nut to secure the scale in place on the liner using the hole I just drilled and then drill the other holes using the liner as a drilling template. I do it this way so that all the holes line up perfectly.
And then I finish shaping the scale. Sometimes I have to file the inside circumference of the button hole with a round file to produce the perfect amount of clearance for the button to go up and down without rubbing. And that's it.
But that's my way. Since the cavity isn't likely going to be seen by anybody, one could always use a hand-held dremel and grind out the cavity with grinding bits or even a cutting wheel. It won't look refined, but it will still work.
These were done in G10. There were no bolsters on these knives, so fitting between the buttons and bolsters was not an issue. But I've used the method described above on several switchblades with bolsters. But in each case I always start with the button hole and work outward from there.
Avatar- Ti-Lite Auto Conversion. Video- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q79nia-_DzU
My youtube knife channel- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjSYCK ... 3s5HNcsL5A
Stiletto switchblade parts for sale- blades, bolsters, sears, rockers/buttons
My youtube knife channel- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjSYCK ... 3s5HNcsL5A
Stiletto switchblade parts for sale- blades, bolsters, sears, rockers/buttons
Re: Some advice needed
Bill:
The rear bolsters are pinned for some reason, so even though the front is held by screws, I can’t take the knife apart without grinding those pin heads off.
I might do that.
The rear bolsters are pinned for some reason, so even though the front is held by screws, I can’t take the knife apart without grinding those pin heads off.
I might do that.
Re: Some advice needed
Killgar:
I’ve only got a handheld dremel tool and a variety of cutting bits.
You’re right, it won’t be visible, but I’d like to get it as neat as possible.
I’ve only got a handheld dremel tool and a variety of cutting bits.
You’re right, it won’t be visible, but I’d like to get it as neat as possible.
Re: Some advice needed
Bill:
And there are 2 pins holding the rear bolsters, so I can’t just rotate the liners apart enough to get to the insides of the liners.
And there are 2 pins holding the rear bolsters, so I can’t just rotate the liners apart enough to get to the insides of the liners.
Re: Some advice needed
Ok, made some progress. I think this is gonna work out ok. Still need to drill the pin and button holes. If this project goes south, it will be the pin/button drilling.
I decided not to take the knife apart. It would make the hole placement a lot easier, but I’m all in now.
I decided not to take the knife apart. It would make the hole placement a lot easier, but I’m all in now.
- Attachments
-
- 73E99775-83FF-41D0-990B-2E083D966D54.jpeg (560.45 KiB) Viewed 12448 times
-
- 34944548-7491-4AE1-8B68-8E24F7003229.jpeg (507.99 KiB) Viewed 12448 times
-
- C96ADA74-53FD-4205-9EA8-214C2D104ECD.jpeg (526.38 KiB) Viewed 12448 times
- Bill DeShivs
- Yes.
- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 2:50 pm
- Location: In de lan o' cotton
- Contact:
Re: Some advice needed
Nice fitment!
The material is pretty brittle in thin sections, though.
The material is pretty brittle in thin sections, though.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: Some advice needed
Yes, it’s thin near the top, but I think it will hold up.
Won’t know if there’s enough clearance until I drill for the button. It’s close. If not, I was thinking of adding a thin blue spacer.
The original scale is about 3/16. The new scale is 3/16, so should be OK. Should be…
Won’t know if there’s enough clearance until I drill for the button. It’s close. If not, I was thinking of adding a thin blue spacer.
The original scale is about 3/16. The new scale is 3/16, so should be OK. Should be…
Re: Some advice needed
I think you should use the old scale as a template; position it over the new scale and drill it with your drill press. Then flip it over and carve out the channel for the button and safety.
Your friend on the web's most friendly community on knives and blades,
John
Massachusetts Where Everything is Illegal or Taxed
John
Massachusetts Where Everything is Illegal or Taxed
Re: Some advice needed
John:
That’s the plan. No drill press, though. How hard could it be?
That’s the plan. No drill press, though. How hard could it be?
Re: Some advice needed
All you need is a steady hand. Can’t wait to see your rescaled knife.
Your friend on the web's most friendly community on knives and blades,
John
Massachusetts Where Everything is Illegal or Taxed
John
Massachusetts Where Everything is Illegal or Taxed
- Bill DeShivs
- Yes.
- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2002 2:50 pm
- Location: In de lan o' cotton
- Contact:
Re: Some advice needed
Better to put the new scale in place, and drill through the liners.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: Some advice needed
You're right, Bill.
The template idea might work.
Drilling through the liners will definitely work.
I'm gonna grind the rear bolster pins and take the knife apart.
The template idea might work.
Drilling through the liners will definitely work.
I'm gonna grind the rear bolster pins and take the knife apart.
Re: Chinese swing guard project
We take you live to Lakehurst NJ, where the Hindenburg is beginning its final approach.
Now it’s a project.
Now it’s a project.
- Attachments
-
- C824FB26-50E8-4362-B3E1-71ACAB6EB71C.jpeg (452.89 KiB) Viewed 12163 times