How about an 11" Fishtail Picklock, with a 5" blad
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- Vagrant
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Since we have NO clue what they are planning, [other than "pocket"] a couple thoughts are approriate IF it is "Stiletto style" the guards HAVE to go Guards will catch on anything else in the pocket That means a picklock or a button open/button close Picklocks are a "pain" to close "one handed" and you often need to close a knife one handed If the knife will be a "curved bolster", "slant bolster", "Fishtail" or other the guards are already gone The button release method is the MOST "intuative" It is the 1st thing the uninitiated ALWAYS try
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I will NOT agree for the sake of harmony, but I will concur when you are RIGHT! It must be either a Picklock, button open/close or spine release.Vagrant wrote:Since we have NO clue what they are planning, [other than "pocket"] a couple thoughts are approriate IF it is "Stiletto style" the guards HAVE to go Guards will catch on anything else in the pocket That means a picklock or a button open/button close Picklocks are a "pain" to close "one handed" and you often need to close a knife one handed If the knife will be a "curved bolster", "slant bolster", "Fishtail" or other the guards are already gone The button release method is the MOST "intuative" It is the 1st thing the uninitiated ALWAYS try
The only reservation that I have with the button open/close is that the blade pin will have undue stress exerted upon it while the tool performs daily cutting tasks. In turn, this will likely shorten the life of the locking mechanism. Thus, the locking pin must be fortified to provide the piece with a long service life. A Massaro-pattern picklock, with a Buck 440C type of steel and a clip blade, along with with a flat firing button and a stout slide safety would be an exceptionally good option to consider for a working "pocket" auto.
Scott
I'm making picklocks now, a one-handed closure is one of the self imposed requirements I've made mandatory. I'd assumed that the method I came up with would be more or less typical; maybe not.
It works as follows; you place the index fingertip against the front lower edge of the locking lug on the spring, the thumb on the upper edge of the blade. Pushing up with the index finger and down with the thumb simultaneously releases the blade from the locked position, then you move the 4 fingers of the hand to the blade upper edge and push it closed. Your thumb is free to push the button in while it's closing, though I generally don't because I find it awkward. I grind the sear at an angle so it ramps against the blade while closing, and polish it so it won't scratch the blade. Also, I chamfer and polish the end of the main spring so that it pushes the sear away from the blade while it's closing. Does this sound like the method most of you guys use to close a picklock one-handed?
Tom
It works as follows; you place the index fingertip against the front lower edge of the locking lug on the spring, the thumb on the upper edge of the blade. Pushing up with the index finger and down with the thumb simultaneously releases the blade from the locked position, then you move the 4 fingers of the hand to the blade upper edge and push it closed. Your thumb is free to push the button in while it's closing, though I generally don't because I find it awkward. I grind the sear at an angle so it ramps against the blade while closing, and polish it so it won't scratch the blade. Also, I chamfer and polish the end of the main spring so that it pushes the sear away from the blade while it's closing. Does this sound like the method most of you guys use to close a picklock one-handed?
Tom
Is it...Tomorrow....Or just the end of time?
- Vagrant
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This is NOT an arguement but time to correct a VERY common MisconceptionFishtail Picklock wrote: The only reservation that I have with the button open/close is that the blade pin will have undue stress exerted upon it while the tool performs daily cutting tasks.
Scott
The [traditional ITALIAN] Button-open/close is MANY times stronger than a picklock It is actually a bar/tab the drops into a channel in the blade. The channel is so wide that almost two lock-tabs from a picklock will fit it The picklock is just plain wimpy in comparison The chances of one of these wearing is so minimal it should not even be considered.
- Vagrant
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When open the blade is supported by the pivot pin, the lock channel and a backspring that is [almost] TWICE as thick as this "picklock" spring, and it's one from a larger picklock
What I DON'T understand is, Picklocks have aquired almost mythical status and the button open/close are ignored or made fun off
Vagrant's dictionary - from now on I'll call the button open/close BO/C If I remember
What I DON'T understand is, Picklocks have aquired almost mythical status and the button open/close are ignored or made fun off
Vagrant's dictionary - from now on I'll call the button open/close BO/C If I remember
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I stand corrected!
I appreciate being informed of this difference! Thank you VERY much! Mea culpa! My father's Picklock was so strong that it was incredible! I have a Frank Beltrame Picklock with a bayonet blade. It, too, seems VERY strong! If I were to encounter a button open/close made of modern "spcae age" materials, I would consider both a 9" and 11" Italian, with a thick-bellied clip point blade, the "holy grail" of working Italian automatics. Now THERE'S one for Armando and Francesco Beltrame to ponder!Vagrant wrote:When open the blade is supported by the pivot pin, the lock channel and a backspring that is [almost] TWICE as thick as this "picklock" spring, and it's one from a larger picklock
What I DON'T understand is, Picklocks have aquired almost mythical status and the button open/close are ignored or made fun off
Vagrant's dictionary - from now on I'll call the button open/close BO/C If I remember
Scott
- natcherly
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The method I developed (and which I have subsequently seen others use so I can't say I invented it ) is as follows. I place the thumb and middle finger on opposite sides of the lock tab in the space behind the lock tab and the bolster. I essentially squeeze the the finger and thumb toward each other. That lifts the lock tab, and I can then push the blade away using the index finger.tr4252 wrote:..the method I came up with would be more or less typical; maybe not.
It works as follows; you place the index fingertip against the front lower edge of the locking lug on the spring, the thumb on the upper edge of the blade. Pushing up with the index finger and down with the thumb simultaneously releases the blade from the locked position
This dosen't work on all picks as some have backsprings that are too strong. Works fine with my 13" Campolin but not so well with most of Frank's picks.
Last edited by natcherly on Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I agree.
The back spring on my FB Picklock is what further reinforced my belief that the Picklock was the strongest locking system available. I had NO idea that that the button open/close configuration was so strong.
"The one BIG advantage the old picklocks had was a carbon steel blade
STRONG beats shiny every time in my book
IF the BO/C in the picture had a carbon steel blade, I'd knock the guards off and make it my EDC 90% of the time." - Vagrant.
A strong, SHARP, and durable auto... What a concept! D'ya think?!
Let's go back to the old methods (with modern materials, of course) and really put a lively spark in the knives of the 21st century!
Agreed?
Scott
"The one BIG advantage the old picklocks had was a carbon steel blade
STRONG beats shiny every time in my book
IF the BO/C in the picture had a carbon steel blade, I'd knock the guards off and make it my EDC 90% of the time." - Vagrant.
A strong, SHARP, and durable auto... What a concept! D'ya think?!
Let's go back to the old methods (with modern materials, of course) and really put a lively spark in the knives of the 21st century!
Agreed?
Scott
- Vagrant
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I NEVER knew how STRONG until I looked one over while "playing with it" These things are "bull strong"jarvis wrote:Thanks for the mini-tutorial on the BO/C, Vagrant. I remember you had always said the BO/C was a very strong system. Now I know why. Once again, you are a wealth of information.
Remake this with steel liners and carbon steel blade and call it "Il Toro" Tangstamp it "Proudly made in Maniago"
IF Due Buoi is involved call it "Due Tori" IF they make a knife like that it can be the toughest knife made and the one everything else is compared to
- Grim
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i think that i would also like to see a button open botton close because i too would like to use it as an edc for one reason you dont have to worry about your dumbass friends almost breaking your knife because they dont know how close it .Im sure you guys have had your sure of "you let me see that".