Bill, I hope this is the correct place to ask you for possible repair answers- I am asking about Latamas and see that they are high on your list of knives you are qualified to repair, is it possible to pull up a blade with a slight, but noticeable "droop"? I see things in a mechanical way and realize that with a tiny bit less at the back of the lock pin, the blade would raise a little, is this something that you can correct, at least to a certain degree?
I know I'm a bit picky, but if anyone has an answer, it's you- I am way beyond the point of even thinking about making my own repairs, I'm a bit shaky, do not have a well-equipped shop and have no desire to attempt to work on a standard switchblade lock system. Both of the two Latamas I have are a work of art and so I'm asking if this is a reasonable request. If the correction would mean taking the entire knife apart, say, rather than just removing
the pivot pin, I'd have to decide if it's worth that much effort. So I guess I'm asking if this is a reasonable basic fix --
Thanks, Bill, for listening to me whine --- John
Mild Latama corrections
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Bill DeShivs
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Re: Mild Latama corrections
I'm as qualified as anyone to work on Latama's products.
Usually, straightening a blade doers not require disassembling the entire knife.
When you remove metal at one point, it can create undesired movement at another point. Sometimes it works and the job is easy. Other times, you have to move metal around to compensate.
Should you want to send it to me in a month or so, I'll look at it.
Please send me an email at mickeybeep@aol.com as that is how I discuss all work.
Usually, straightening a blade doers not require disassembling the entire knife.
When you remove metal at one point, it can create undesired movement at another point. Sometimes it works and the job is easy. Other times, you have to move metal around to compensate.
Should you want to send it to me in a month or so, I'll look at it.
Please send me an email at mickeybeep@aol.com as that is how I discuss all work.
Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
http://www.billdeshivs.com
Factory authorized repairs for:
Latama, Mauro Mario, LePre, Colonial, Kabar, Flylock, Schrade Cut Co., Presto, Press Button, Hubertus, Grafrath, Kuno Ritter knives, Puma, Burrell Cutlery.
Re: Mild Latama corrections
Not that I would know how they assembled them.. . .
But always thought they should pin the blade pivot pin FIRST.
Then lay the backspring and align the blade. And clamp it straight . . .
and only THEN. . put the back spine pin and bottom bolster pin in place.
In the SharperDeal photo archives, tours of Italy shops. . .
I recall seeing photos of the whole handle pinned together,
and the Old grandpa assembling 18 inch B.O.B.C stilettos. . .
and the pivot pin is the last pin inserted.
It almost guarantees any flaw will be magnified.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I have seen a 7 inch Latama, where the blade was solid, but not opened 100% straight. . . .
The knife was so over-sharpened to the point where the cutting edge was honed straight (no curve at point.)
The knife looked so cool . . it was like a spike.
I have a 33cm inch stag Transitional Rostfrei plain blade with swedge, that is over-sharpened.
and because the blade was not aligned . .it still looks good over-sharpened . .
but not as cool looking as the 7 inch spike.
But always thought they should pin the blade pivot pin FIRST.
Then lay the backspring and align the blade. And clamp it straight . . .
and only THEN. . put the back spine pin and bottom bolster pin in place.
In the SharperDeal photo archives, tours of Italy shops. . .
I recall seeing photos of the whole handle pinned together,
and the Old grandpa assembling 18 inch B.O.B.C stilettos. . .
and the pivot pin is the last pin inserted.
It almost guarantees any flaw will be magnified.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I have seen a 7 inch Latama, where the blade was solid, but not opened 100% straight. . . .
The knife was so over-sharpened to the point where the cutting edge was honed straight (no curve at point.)
The knife looked so cool . . it was like a spike.
I have a 33cm inch stag Transitional Rostfrei plain blade with swedge, that is over-sharpened.
and because the blade was not aligned . .it still looks good over-sharpened . .
but not as cool looking as the 7 inch spike.
Re: Mild Latama corrections
Bill, I was trying to get an idea of what you're thinking might be on this, as far as a standard blade adjustment or a more complex repair. I can understand where blade "droop" would be a very straight forward adjustment whereas if the blade is pointing too high, I would think that is a good bit more difficult. Thanks for the email, and after I see what this next one looks like, I'll have a better idea of what I'll want done and I do understand that you are busy so we can communicate well before hand -- Thanks --John