Taiwanese rehab

[Twobit]

I moved over here to the appropriate forum because this is now officially my first rescue project. I'm thinking I'll try to make all new scales as these have seen better days.
Edit: what I thought was the stub of a broken kick spring was actually the spring retainer which is of one piece with the back spring.

[sammy the blade]

Good luck and show us your progress!

[Twobit]

Will do, Sammy!

[Twobit]

Credit to XBMX as the seller of the one that jolted my memory.

[Twobit]

The back spring had some pitting that I didn't feel was properly addressed by the wire wheel and it was inset from the liners just a hair so I took care of both issues on the belt sander. I'm thinking a further disassembly is going to be necessary to address what I feel is excessive front to back play. Look at the rivet acting as the pivot pin. A) is this commonly available? B) any reason I couldn't use a solid pin?

[Twobit]

The liners seem to be particularly flimsy. I'm wondering about welding some kind of stiffeners along the length, to be hidden by the scales and bolsters. I think that some inward flex is rubbing on the blade and impeding free swing -out.

[Twobit]

Well, looks like I'm definitely gonna have to replace the scales. I had the main assembly soaking in laquer thinner, dumped it out after the soak, then put all the parts in the little tub I was using for the soak. Well, there was some residue left and it melted a smooth spot on the front scale. I was pretty sure I was making new ones anyway. Challenge accepted.

[whippersnapper]

I have a parts knife you can have. I thought it might have a couple good scales but they are busted. Spring and the plastic safety slide are also missing, so not much you need unless you end up removing the blade. This blade looks shiny new. And the bolsters might be a little better. If you want it just cover the postage to you.

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As far as drilling out the hollow rivet pivot pin, I really don't think it would matter replacing it with a solid pin as long as you keep it the same size. I larger diameter pin might mess up the geometry. But I haven't ever tried replacing one. BillD would know for sure.

[Twobit]

Whippersnapper, I'd really appreciate that. How's the blade lockup? That looks to be the stickiest issue with this one. Lots of front to back play. I was figuring on clamping chill blocks on the main part and trying to close up the sear with some TIG welding but if the blade and sear of yours are tight that would be a lot easier. I'll see about getting you a money order for $10 sent in the next couple of days if I can get to the PO on lunch otherwise I can't mail it till Friday. Send it the cheapest way you can and keep the rest. Thanks a bunch!

[whippersnapper]

It has some up and down play. Probably .125 at the blade tip. Also opens kind of hard. Looks like it rubs on one side of the liner.
These things brand new are probably a step below a Rizzuto in quality.

PM me your address and I will try to get it in the mail tomorrow. We have about 3+ feet of snow and been snowed in for 3 days. Finally getting dug out today.

[Twobit]

Jeez! What part of Michigan are you in? I lived in the U. P. From '96 to '05. No need to hurry mailing it. I'm taking my time with this, pecking away when I can spare time for it at work. Thanks again!

[whippersnapper]

I'm close to Greenville. About middle of the LP.. Just tell me where to send it if you want it.

[Bill DeShivs]

You can't replace the pivot rivet with a solid piece, as the front pin needs to go through it-unless you run that pin through the bolsters.
You can tighten the tubing by using a large center punch.

[Twobit]

Thank you, Bill, I see what you're talking about. I would then have to drill the holes in the bolsters out bigger. I'll see if I can find the hollow rivet.

[jerryk25]

Why you have a hollow rivet for a pivot pin.

This knife is designed as a throw-away utility knife.
People will scrape and pry with the blade, not baby it.
The bolsters are thin metal. . . much like an early Shure-Snap.
The hollow rivet will keep the liners pinched tightly to the blade.
The bolsters are secured by the inner pin.

It IS possible to substitute a bigger diameter solid pin, thru bolster and liner.
But with any use, you will loosen the blade,
and be tempted hit the pivot pin to tighten up the blade.

And you will crush the thin bolster.

This happens a lot on Westbury Sales K12-AL,
where you see the bolster is a bit flat, and now WIDER than the liner below.
and the blade is still loose, even though the bolster is snug.

IF YOU FILL THE BOLSTER WITH SOLDER, AND MAKE IT SOLID.
You can use a plain pin in the pivot.

But that is more complex than using a new rivet.
or using a brass inner pin with a hole drilled thru it
for a second bolster pin.

I've mangled about a dozen old Shure-Snaps, and re-assembled them.
Same rivet and bolster technique.

You can go to a Radio Controlled airplane hobby shop and buy brass tubing in many sizes.
and experiment with a ball bearing as an anvil and peen the tubing into a rivet.

You might be able to buy shoelace eyelets . . I'm not sure.