I'm about to start my first MIKOV kit and have already got Mr Nemo's fine guide printed out and laminated in readiness.
The one thing that bothers me about the MIKOV is blade play.
Mr DeShivs has already helped me out over at 101 but i would grateful for any comments anyone else has.
The second thing is the blade is slightly off centre (it leans to the left) my other MIKOV is the same and i was hoping to correct it on this one but i don't want to start filing in case i loosen everything up.
Again any comments would be most welcome.
Cheers
Rapidboy
MIKOV kit
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Mmmmmm.......let's see here....are you worried about side to side or up and down play?....Mikovs can be a bit tricky.....but I have found when you are peening your pivot pin....use a flat round steel rod to peen the pivot pin....lay the end of the rod on the center of the pin (other side is on an anvil or something similar)and smack it to get a nice even mush effect on the pin....if you use a hammer on the pin edges...you will probably peen one side of the pin more than the other like I did on the first few....which can cause them to not fire...fire slow....be tight at the front of the bolster...but loose at the back (wobble)...etc...etc...etc... 
........Nemo
........NemoNice to here from you NEMO
The blade play was from side to side in my first MIKOV and when i look at the kit it seems it will have the same movement.
Mr DeShivs talked me through annealing the blade and hammering it to correct the play (this time i will anneal it before hammering it !
)
I had considered using a nail punch when peening the pins to try and get that mushroomed finish.
I was also considering not using the small pins to secure the scales and instead using small screw and epoxy to attach them from underneath.
My main concern at the moment is the blade not being straight.
Cheers Rapidboy
The blade play was from side to side in my first MIKOV and when i look at the kit it seems it will have the same movement.
Mr DeShivs talked me through annealing the blade and hammering it to correct the play (this time i will anneal it before hammering it !
)I had considered using a nail punch when peening the pins to try and get that mushroomed finish.
I was also considering not using the small pins to secure the scales and instead using small screw and epoxy to attach them from underneath.
My main concern at the moment is the blade not being straight.
Cheers Rapidboy
The story so far.....
I have smoothed the casting blemishes off the lever and smoothed and fitted everything else so it all goes together neatly.
The file work is done (I'm quite pleased as its only my second attempt but i have to confess i "borrowed" the pattern from one that NEMO had on BA)
I decided to try and do without the middle scale pin so I made up a small pin for the spine to pivot on and will try and fit the scales without a central pin (i bent the liners slightly so they press together when the blade pivot pin and bottom scale pin are tightened).
I know NEMO's instructions show the scales being fitted first (before file work etc.) but i haven't decided on the scale material yet and as its all being done by hand (no belt sander) i can be careful when fitting them.
I want the scales to be as smooth and uncluttered as possible so i want to try and use small screws and adhesive instead of the the small scale pins.
I would like to use a replacement pivot pin and bottom scale pin ,the type that screw together so i can adjust the blade tension and also take it apart if i want .
Does anyone know where i can get any of these items.
I'm still not sure about the scale material.
NEMO kindly sent me some wood (Boirel) and JAGMAN sent me a pic of his kit finished in white bone (sweet). Any suggestions?
Any advice would be really helpful.
Cheers
Rapidboy
I have smoothed the casting blemishes off the lever and smoothed and fitted everything else so it all goes together neatly.
The file work is done (I'm quite pleased as its only my second attempt but i have to confess i "borrowed" the pattern from one that NEMO had on BA)
I decided to try and do without the middle scale pin so I made up a small pin for the spine to pivot on and will try and fit the scales without a central pin (i bent the liners slightly so they press together when the blade pivot pin and bottom scale pin are tightened).
I know NEMO's instructions show the scales being fitted first (before file work etc.) but i haven't decided on the scale material yet and as its all being done by hand (no belt sander) i can be careful when fitting them.
I want the scales to be as smooth and uncluttered as possible so i want to try and use small screws and adhesive instead of the the small scale pins.
I would like to use a replacement pivot pin and bottom scale pin ,the type that screw together so i can adjust the blade tension and also take it apart if i want .
Does anyone know where i can get any of these items.
I'm still not sure about the scale material.
NEMO kindly sent me some wood (Boirel) and JAGMAN sent me a pic of his kit finished in white bone (sweet). Any suggestions?
Any advice would be really helpful.
Cheers
Rapidboy
Looks good so far Rapid - be sure to post a pic. of the finished knife!
Vagrant posted a link to small parts supplies very recently, look it up and check them out, they may have what you need, A set of heavy/stiff scales might help as the pivot pin will not be through the handle material (whatever you decide on). And may provide a little more support.
Jagman.
Vagrant posted a link to small parts supplies very recently, look it up and check them out, they may have what you need, A set of heavy/stiff scales might help as the pivot pin will not be through the handle material (whatever you decide on). And may provide a little more support.
Jagman.
right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time. I think
I've forgotten this before.
I've forgotten this before.
Thanks Jagman,
I really liked the bone scales on your knife ,was it hard to work with?
I'm not using a bandsaw or belt sander so its all being done by hand.
A friend showed me some black "stuff" he had in his gun shop ,its for using as a spacer to increase the length of a shotgun stock.
Apparently its some kind of really hard resin that can be shaped and then polished.
The reason for putting it together with screws instead of pins is so i can take it apart and install a central scale fixing if it dosn't work out with the small pivot pin.
The worst thing is that my Typhoons are here at last and i want to start on them as well!!
I really liked the bone scales on your knife ,was it hard to work with?
I'm not using a bandsaw or belt sander so its all being done by hand.
A friend showed me some black "stuff" he had in his gun shop ,its for using as a spacer to increase the length of a shotgun stock.
Apparently its some kind of really hard resin that can be shaped and then polished.
The reason for putting it together with screws instead of pins is so i can take it apart and install a central scale fixing if it dosn't work out with the small pivot pin.
The worst thing is that my Typhoons are here at last and i want to start on them as well!!
My Typhoon bali kit is now a "rear assembly screw short! 
It works really well and i can adjust the blade tension so the operation is quick with minimal blade play (just need to sort out the play in the other direction!)
I will obviously need to use some Loctite at the end to stop it working loose.
Any ideas about the blade play?
It works really well and i can adjust the blade tension so the operation is quick with minimal blade play (just need to sort out the play in the other direction!)
I will obviously need to use some Loctite at the end to stop it working loose.
Any ideas about the blade play?
Is it side to side play or up and down. I thought the side to side play should be solved by the adjustable pivot. If not, maybe the springs are wider than the blade? On our custom pieces we use teflon washers and they work OK. If the play is horizontal you could extend the back spring by welding piece of metal on it (and filing it down to the desired length). Also could you please post the other side of the knife how the torx screw is fitted? Thanks. As for the blade leaning to the left the problem should be solved in current production.
David
David
Hi Tanto
The "side to side" blade play was cured with the adjustable pivot ,its the "up and down" movement thats bad.
I don't think welding the back spring is going to cure it either.
I think the notch in the blade that the lever "beak" locates in is the cause (approx 1mm gap!!).
I can either try to anneal the blade and hammer it to try and close the notch a little or i could try and increase the size of the lever "beak".
The adjustable pivot is no bigger than a neatly peened pin but is easier to achieve ,allows adjustment and is easy to dismantle.
I have ordered some pivot barrels that have screws on both sides which should give a little extra length so i can use them to secure the scales.
I did try some Phosphorous-Bronze washers but didn't have room for them.
Any thoughts on hammering the blade or replacing/modifying the plunger?
Rapidboy
The "side to side" blade play was cured with the adjustable pivot ,its the "up and down" movement thats bad.
I don't think welding the back spring is going to cure it either.
I think the notch in the blade that the lever "beak" locates in is the cause (approx 1mm gap!!).
I can either try to anneal the blade and hammer it to try and close the notch a little or i could try and increase the size of the lever "beak".
The adjustable pivot is no bigger than a neatly peened pin but is easier to achieve ,allows adjustment and is easy to dismantle.
I have ordered some pivot barrels that have screws on both sides which should give a little extra length so i can use them to secure the scales.
I did try some Phosphorous-Bronze washers but didn't have room for them.
Any thoughts on hammering the blade or replacing/modifying the plunger?
Rapidboy
It looks like you are right, the notch is too big (problem with all the SS blades - they are stamped - unlike the damascus blades that are water cut with smaller tollerances). I do not know if there is enough material on the blade to "fill" the gap. I also do not know what would be necessary to do to add more material either to the blade or the back spring (I still think if the backspring was a bit longer it would push the blade against the plunger a bit more). I will ask the guy who assembles the custom knives for me how he deals with the problem.
David
David
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Doc Rocket
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good stuff
I just want to comment on the excellent pictures rapidboy1 and the great content in this thread. I have a few Mikov's kits coming in and and appreciate this info.
I love my country...
It's the #*# goverment...
It's the #*# goverment...
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Bill DeShivs
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Mikov kit
Gentlemen ; My first post,after having skulked around the fringes for some months,hopefully a worthwhile contribution. rapidboy1,if you are satisfied with the blade to handle alignment with the blade shoulder hard against the backspring then most definitly the lock notch needs work.Personally I'd be leery of peening hardened stainless,so would leave that to hands with greater experience than mine.A phosphor bronze shim could be silver soldered on to the appropriate notch face,dressed,and fitted with a slight taper for lock seating and wear compensation.The bronze is easy to work,adds smoothness,and is relatively easy to redo should the fitting get away on you. A heat sink will help to avoid excessive annealing. Looks to me that you have put in a lot of careful work,can't wait to see it completed. To all,my apologies for the poor structure,I'll figure out paragraphs yet,but I still can't find the crank on this rig.javascript:emoticon(':oops:')
Embarassed
Embarassed
Sempere ubi sub ubi
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Claudester
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Tanto - When i pull the main spring out a little bit (as if to remove it) this causes the back spring to apply more tension to the blade but does not decrease the blade play so i think the problem lies in the blade or the lever pin.
I'm in no great hurry as i got the scale material today so i have plenty to be getting on with and i would be interested to hear back from your man.
Doc - Thanks for your kind words ,i cant wait to see what a man with your talents will do with these kits.
Bill - Working on the lever pin is likely to be an easier option than the blade.
I had considered building up the pin using "Molecular Metal" i don't know what its called in the US but its a 2 part product that when cured can be tapped and filed just like metal.
I don't know how it would wear but its an easy fix option.
I don't have a workshop at the moment all this is being done on my computer desk!
Diggaway - Welcome on board ,i haven't been here all that long myself but these are a great bunch of guys......Now post a pic over at Off Topic or Teddy will be after you
Claudster - The pivot barrel shown is from a TYPHOON bali kit (and will have to go back) i have ordered some more from http://outdoorsuppliesuk.com/ but i think they are Darrel Ralph parts.
As for size i opened the MIKOV up with a 1/8 bit and believe the replacements barrels are the same size.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Rapidboy
I'm in no great hurry as i got the scale material today so i have plenty to be getting on with and i would be interested to hear back from your man.
Doc - Thanks for your kind words ,i cant wait to see what a man with your talents will do with these kits.
Bill - Working on the lever pin is likely to be an easier option than the blade.
I had considered building up the pin using "Molecular Metal" i don't know what its called in the US but its a 2 part product that when cured can be tapped and filed just like metal.
I don't know how it would wear but its an easy fix option.
I don't have a workshop at the moment all this is being done on my computer desk!
Diggaway - Welcome on board ,i haven't been here all that long myself but these are a great bunch of guys......Now post a pic over at Off Topic or Teddy will be after you
Claudster - The pivot barrel shown is from a TYPHOON bali kit (and will have to go back) i have ordered some more from http://outdoorsuppliesuk.com/ but i think they are Darrel Ralph parts.
As for size i opened the MIKOV up with a 1/8 bit and believe the replacements barrels are the same size.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Rapidboy