MIKOV kit

Post by **Bill DeShivs** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 10:52 pm

"Molecular metal" won't work. It's an epoxy product, and too soft.
You could hard solder the blade notch up.
Bill

rapidboy1 · Post by **rapidboy1** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 10:57 pm

I can solder the notch and then recut it ???
Ordinary solder like i use to join cable would seem to be too soft ??

BennytheBlade · Post by **BennytheBlade** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:37 pm

Claudester wrote:Mr. Rapidboy1,
Where do you get those pivot barrels if I may ask and what sizes.
Isn't that a 3mm hole for the pivot?

Take Care

I was wondering the same thing.
Those parts at knifekits are top notch.
Ill have to pick up some pivots next time I order.

Post by **Bill DeShivs** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:02 am

No!
Hard solder, not soft solder.
Real "silver solder" has at least 15% silver and requires high heat and special flux, and contains no lead.
Actually, the process is called "silver brazing."
Bill

rapidboy1 · Post by **rapidboy1** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:08 am

OK ,i've heard of brazing ,so what do i need and how do i do it.
I realise this is all second nature to you guys but im still learning so take it slow and you will have to S-P-E-L-L I-T O-U-T.

JAGMAN · Post by **JAGMAN** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:38 am

[quote="rapidboy1"]Hi Tanto
The "side to side" blade play was cured with the adjustable pivot ,its the "up and down" movement thats bad.
I don't think welding the back spring is going to cure it either.
I think the notch in the blade that the lever "beak" locates in is the cause (approx 1mm gap!!).
I can either try to anneal the blade and hammer it to try and close the notch a little or i could try and increase the size of the lever "beak".

Hi Rapid, I had this problem with mine, and on the advise of an expert I cold forged the end of the blade - BFH - worked fine. It turned out better than I thought because after the session with the hammer I was able to re - file the notch in a better position to eliminate a slight lean on the blade, I did not have quite as much clearance as your pic. shows though.
ps. do not use your computer desk as an anvil - may be too loud for the nieghbors!
Jagman

Post by **Bill DeShivs** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 1:49 am

For this job all you need is a propane torch, vise, silver solder, and flux.
http://www.brownells.com or http://www.jantzsupply.com can supply silver solder and flux. Make sure you specify high temperature silver solder (above 1000 degrees F.)
Bill

Stone Knife · Post by **Stone Knife** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:48 pm

Don't forget some face protection. Silver solder can make some amazing leaps in the wrong direction!

redbear · Post by **redbear** » Sun Feb 29, 2004 6:12 pm

I've been watching this topic with interest as I've been having similar problems with my Mikov kit as well. I don't have nearly as much gap between the blade notch and beak, just a bit, but I also have movement in the beak/lever assembly itself. The two problems combined give me about 1/4 inch up and down blade play. Anyone have suggestions on a cure?
We seem to be spending a lot of time fixing these blade problems. Too bad that the folks at Mikov dont spend as much time and effort in improving production and quality control.
Great pics by the way Mr. Rapidboy. Excellent close up work.

rapidboy1 · Post by **rapidboy1** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 10:34 pm

OK so time for an update.
I considered my options and decided to pound the hell out of the blade and hope it didn't break!

Bearing in mind the last one did break this was perhaps a little reckless but i was not having any luck in finding an "idiots guide to silver soldering" on line ,a source for silver solder and brazing torch etc. in UK or anyone to tackle the job for me so.........
I used the only heat source i have (a regular plumbers blow lamp) ,the blade didn't change colour ,just got kinda got dirty looking so i thought that was about time to hit it and i did, then hit it some more and then hit the back spring just to be sure!
The result is a a great lock

I will need to tidy it up with a fine file and then work down through the grades of abrasive cloth.
Next kit i will get the lock up right before file work etc. but you live and you learn.

rapidboy1 · Post by **rapidboy1** » Sun Mar 07, 2004 4:14 pm

The "black stuff" for the scales is called ebonite and its a nightmare to slim it down with only a sheet of abrasive paper

but the back scale is down to the correct thickness and now i need to fix it to the liner.
I want to glue it on ,any suggestions.

I'm trying to do away with the middle scale pin and the 2 small front pins.
I will drill and glue the 2 front pins in from below to stop sideways movement but i don't want to have them seen from the outside.
The lower scale pin will be replaced with a barrel pivot so i can dissemble the knife later.

Post by **Bill DeShivs** » Sun Mar 07, 2004 6:04 pm

I don't recommend gluing pins in from the backside. They will probably work loose. You could use screws, threading/Loctiting them into the liner.
The Mikov will always have a slight bow on the lever side liner. This will probably cause problems if you just glue that scale on.
Bill

rapidboy1 · Post by **rapidboy1** » Sun Mar 07, 2004 6:12 pm

Thanks Bill,i dont have any screws that small but i think Vagrant put a link to a supplier on here somewhere.

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Sun Mar 07, 2004 8:37 pm

rapidboy1 wrote:Thanks Bill,i dont have any screws that small but i think Vagrant put a link to a supplier on here somewhere.

http://www.micromark.com/

Post by **Bill DeShivs** » Mon Mar 08, 2004 12:27 am

Micromark is a good source for things small!
Bill