A growing number of collectors customize their automatic knives by changing scales, bolsters, blades, doing fileworks, ... Wether you're a guru or just a wannabe knife modder, this is the place to discuss it!
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Mr. Bill,
I spent some time out in my shop trying to cut bone scales for a mikov.
I am using a bench mounted scroll saw with little luck. I tried both coarse and fine blades. the bone does not want to be cut and starts to burn. Please help. the first cuts are for the reverse lever i thought i could hand file the sides after the first slot was cut
How about a table saw with carbide blade???
Thanks
Missaman
I just finished roughing out bone scales for my second Mikov and found a router installed in a router table a great way to go. Quick and easy to make adjustments with nice straight cuts.
I used a scroll saw to cut out the scale outline, and had to make sure blades were new, scales securely held to table and work very very slowly.
Scales are coming along nicely, but would like to know what is commonly used to polish them up after final sanding. Any suggestions?
I use a metal cutting bandsaw for everything. I would think a scroll saw would work, too. Bone is hard, so you have to go slow.
Bone can be sanded with automotive sandpaper, buffed with steel wool, and then polished by hand with Simichrome, or buffed.
Bill
Bill DeShivs wrote:I use a metal cutting bandsaw for everything.
Bill
I used to burn pallets for firewood, the bandsaw was a litte slow but nails didn't "bother" it at all The fine teeth on the metal cutting blade are much less likely to split or chip many materials used for scales, and they cut almost anything.
Thanks,
I believe my father has a small band saw in his shop. I purchased the scales at a local knife show and was told bone was easy to work with
I may go to wood if things don't work out
Missaman
I think I know what your problem is. Are you using cowshinbone?If you are thats your mistake the only bone that works smoothly is human bone. Especially bone that has been soaked through with fish juice.
PB
PB,
It may be cow bone or it may be baby harp seal bone clubed last week by wally. but its dam hard s*it to work with.
Being an old wood butcher I may have to revert to a medium i know.
BTW your pic is missing those glowing eyes We have grown to know and love
Missaman in da hood
Bill that helped more than you know. My first job as a project manager was not going well until my boss at the time said.... there is nothing going on here you have not done yourself at one time. I hold a masters elect., hvac., and carpenters certs. It takes some time to learn a new skill...
Thanks Missaman
Mr. Missaman,
I picked up a 13" band saw and use a fine tooth metal cutting blade and it cuts
through bone like butter. I think Nemo uses a small milling machine with a router tip
for cutting out the slots, I use a small drill press and bought a 3way swivel vise
and it works like a milling machine making a very straight cut. Its a lot cheaper
than buy a milling machine. For the scales I have a 1", 2" and a 4" belt sander and
all these handle the bone very well. All except chicken bones
One loves to possess arms, though they hope never to have occasion for them. Thomas Jefferson
redbear wrote:I just finished roughing out bone scales for my second Mikov and found a router installed in a router table a great way to go. Quick and easy to make adjustments with nice straight cuts.
I used a scroll saw to cut out the scale outline, and had to make sure blades were new, scales securely held to table and work very very slowly.
Scales are coming along nicely, but would like to know what is commonly used to polish them up after final sanding. Any suggestions?
Hello Mr. Redbear,
I use several 6 and 8" buffers and have gotten a mirror like finish using the blue rouge. One of the buffers is a craftsman variable speed and that is really nice cause I can slow it down and not worry about the fingers as much as the other high speed buffers. Good Luck
One loves to possess arms, though they hope never to have occasion for them. Thomas Jefferson
The fine teeth on the metal cutting blade are much less likely to split or chip many materials used for scales, and they cut almost anything.
