polishing stainless steel
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- Straydog 5247
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polishing stainless steel
I've got some older knives that have been carried in pockets for years ! the stainless steel bolsters are scratched & dull ! I've tried various polishes , looks "cleaner" , but thats all ! I want a real shiney finish !(chrome-like) . how can I achieve that result ? ?
- Vagrant
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Dremel, buffing wheel, white rouge, lot's of caution and patience. Try to hurry and you'll hurt the knife, yourself or both. Holding the buff in one place for more than a few seconds can produce lots of "ungood" heat. Check the knife frequently for heat and stop [and quench] anytime it's uncomfortably warm. If you don't have the patience to do this, use Bonzos method. A full size buffer/grinder is the most dangerous tool in any shop and will grab things and throw them cheerfully in your direction. This has KILLED people, and injured many more. A Dremel is less likely to kill you but it can hurt like hell if the buff gets caught on [and grabs] the knife. Hold the knife firmly and touch the buff lightly to it.
- Straydog 5247
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Hey guys ! I've been using "Simichrome" for years on my motorsickles , only on aluminum tho..... didn't realize it would work on s. s. also And patience , is "my middle name" , no prob there ! Mr. Vagrant , I got a "complete" polishing set for my Dremel tool this christmas ! I forgot about it Now I can give it a try ! OH BOY ! Thanks again for the feedback , it helps get to thinkin' P.S. Jim d Don't be so hard on yourself ! you've helped me afew times before ! and I also thank you !
- BennytheBlade
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If friction is a concern, you may use a damp washcloth on the opposing side to dissapate that heat when using your Dremel.
It's also a good technique to orient your work so the rotation of the buffer is in the same direction (like coming off a ski ramp) as any sharp edges, vs. into them.
If not working directly on the blade's edge, I use electrical tape to mask off the sharp edge and the point to avoid accidental handling cuts. It's sometimes too much to both watch the buffer and watch the 'cutter'
It's also a good technique to orient your work so the rotation of the buffer is in the same direction (like coming off a ski ramp) as any sharp edges, vs. into them.
If not working directly on the blade's edge, I use electrical tape to mask off the sharp edge and the point to avoid accidental handling cuts. It's sometimes too much to both watch the buffer and watch the 'cutter'
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I've been thinking about this and it could have been better-
Let me try to clarify what I mean by this "direction of the buffer" thing... (why is this so hard to describe? ) IR an eeeediot! OK
....like if you're polishing a blade, the buffer-wheel shaft would be paralell to the edge and if you let it, the wheel would try to 'climb up' the blade grind instead of push the edge away... (this is why we invented pictures no doubt)
I'm sure you know what I mean anyway. This helps prevent the wheel's digging into the blade if it gets too close to the edge... Pics on request. OK, now- Pancakes for everybody....!
....like if you're polishing a blade, the buffer-wheel shaft would be paralell to the edge and if you let it, the wheel would try to 'climb up' the blade grind instead of push the edge away... (this is why we invented pictures no doubt)
I'm sure you know what I mean anyway. This helps prevent the wheel's digging into the blade if it gets too close to the edge... Pics on request. OK, now- Pancakes for everybody....!
- Straydog 5247
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thanks
Hey guys !
I've tried all suggestions and the job came out "great" , I experimented on one of my "chinese stilettos" ! now IT looks better than my "high-dollar" Italian knives ! Thanx ![/u]
I've tried all suggestions and the job came out "great" , I experimented on one of my "chinese stilettos" ! now IT looks better than my "high-dollar" Italian knives ! Thanx ![/u]
- Straydog 5247
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- mister re-man
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Toothpaste also works great for polishing the action on a revolver. Just remove the sideplate, wash out any oil, fill it with toothpaste, and replace the sideplate. Then proceed to dry fire it about 100 times. Then remove the sideplate, wash out the toothpaste, and apply some Break-Free or any other good lubricant.mister re-man wrote:Mr bonzo wroteand i agree the stuff is great for hand polishing.I use 'Simichrome'. Patience is a virtue. Believe me
believe it or not toothpaste also works well - but don't use too much pressure because it's highly abrasive.