OVERVIEW OF THE ADJUSTEMENT SYSTEM
There are two types of DKW sand shark model adjustment systems. The earlier models utilized a single adjustment screw and the later models used three adjustment screws.
Figure 1. Single and Triple Adjustment Screw Set-Ups in the DKW Sand Shark
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Figure 2. Bottom View of 2-56 x 3/32” Oval and Cup Point Set Screws (20 X)
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Figure 3. Cup Point Set Screw with Steel Ball as it would sit in Knife
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Figure 4. Three Adjustment Screw Blade Showing Adjustment Points Contact
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REMOVAL OF THE SET SCREWS AND CLEANING OF THE ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM
The Sand Sharks come from the factory with Loctite (glue) which was liberally placed on all the adjustment screws. Over the years this results in the screws being frozen in place as well as considerable (unadjusted) play due to wear and lack of adjusting. Attempts to adjust such screws without pre-treatment to remove the Loctite would result in stripping of the hex heads. DKW recommends loosening the Loctite before attempting adjustment using heat. In my experience heat using a soldering gun tip does not work. I therefore developed the following method. First dissemble your DKW Sand Shark using the directions provided by DKW. I have a copy if you need them. With the set screw(s) still in place apply Loctite solvent (you can buy on internet) on both sides of the set screw bottom and top such that the solvent can penetrate the screw from both ends. Allow it to soak into the threads and repeat application over a several day period. Follow this by liberal soaking using penetrating oil such as KROIL first from the top then the bottom again over several days to ensure maximum loosening effect. At this point we have done our best to free up the screw and we are ready to attempt to turn it. Take the right size Allan wrench (0.035”) and gently try and turn counter clock-wise to see if the screw turns. Hint- You may want to use a magnifying glass to discern if screw is turning or not as you push. If the screws can be removed remove them completely. Be alert that the outer two screws in the three-adjustment screw models have the loose steel ball (one in each hole a total of two) so be careful when you remove the screws not to lose them inadvertently. Carefully tip it into a vial or bowel for safe keeping. If the set screws do not turn freely with just a little pressure proceed to the step shown below on removing frozen screws. DO NOT FORCE SO THAT YOU RISK STRIPPING. Please note that I have yet to find a knife that did not have frozen screws even after this treatment so please count on using the below method.
REMOVING FROZEN SET SCREWS
Glue the 0.035” hex wrench into place in the hex screw socket using super glue by applying a small drop at end of Allan wrench. Hold for several minutes with tension in counter clockwise direction and let dry for about 30 minutes. Then hold your breath and give a sharp snap in counter clockwise direction. It should turn freely and be loose. I have used this technique three times with great success. The gluing of the wrench in place ensures you don’t strip the hex socket. Remove the screw which is still glued to the wrench and you can then easily remove glue from the screw by soaking in acetone (or Loctite solvent). Once all the set screws and steel balls (in the case of the three adjustment model) are removed proceed to the cleaning step.
CLEANING, ASSEMBLY, AND ADJUSTMENT
The set screws and steel balls may look clean to the naked eye but as can be seen below in Figure 5 Loctite residue is usually present. Remove this by soaking balls and set screws in a sealed vial with Loctite solvent over a several day period with intermittent shaking. Use the solvent in the knife handle thread holes to remove any Loctite that might be in the threads. You should see the residue slowly sluff off resulting in clean looking screws under a magnifying glass.
Figure 5. Set Screws and Steel ball with Residual Loctite Before Cleaning (20 X)
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REPLACEMENT SET SCREWS AND STEEL BALLS FOR THE DKW SAND SHARK
In the event your set screws need replacement due to being stripped or other the set screws in the desert knife works sand shark are size USA 2-56 x 3/32” socket set screws of black alloy (magnetic). You can find the cup point on the internet but I have yet to find the oval point variety. I would recommend reusing the original ones as once they are freed up as I recommend they would have to be severely stripped to be inoperable. I have never replaced the steel balls but they should be available if lost or for some reason your knife is lacking them. They are 0.063" per my measurements with micrometer. When I first removed these set screws from my three-screw knife I had no idea these balls were present. The next day I saw a steel ball on the table and while I didn’t throw it out it did not occur to me where it might have come from. Once I saw under the microscope that two of the set screws were cup point and one was oval point I eventually I pieced the puzzle together of which this entire report is a result. Once I had my hypothesis of the steel balls I realized there should still be one ball somewhere yet to find. I was gratified to find it on the floor beneath my desk thus completing the mystery. Please don’t count on repeating this type of luck! Frankly if I had not seen that one steel ball sitting on my desk I would have never even suspected the set screws were different let alone loose steel balls were present. I am sure others have removed these screws and did not even notice or find the microscopic balls that likely sprung into the ether lost forever. In any event I hope this summary provides what few remaining mysteries remain for this incredible knife. I have owned Harkin Tritons old and new and Daltons and Microtechs and no double action OTF knife I have handled has the button action as smooth and locks up tighter than the sand shark nor has as smooth of a button action.
