This approach involves assembling the knife with the main compression spring “loaded”, that is, compressed.
In order to compress the spring into its encapsulator assembly, you’ll need to construct a simple spring-compressor. A dremel moto-tool with some medium cut-off wheels will work for this task, as will a small fine-toothed saw.
THE MATERIALS
MAKE THE SPRING-LOADER
1. Make a straight cut on one side of the tube, extending about 1 1/2” up from one end. Allow enough length in the cut so that, with the encapsulator assembly compressed, you’ll still have enough space to insert your small-blade screwdriver on top. The cut needs to be wide enough to let the small-blade screwdriver move smoothly top to bottom.
2. In the dowel, make a shorter 1/3" cut all the way across.
The way this works: you run the dowel down the tube, compress the spring assembly, then hold the compressed assembly with the small screwdriver before removing the tube. The slot in the tube allows it to slip off while the spring stays compressed:
BUILD A TENT
Now that we have a way to load the spring, it’s a good time to build a spring-catcher tent over your work area. When it comes to transferring your loaded encapsulator into the knife, surprises can happen and the four pieces will likely whiz into the other room at near-light speed.
If you lose any one of those parts it equals the entire value of your knife.
Having spent an hour combing my living room to find my mainspring convinced me that this is worthwhile. You can accomplish this by attaching a couple sheets to the ceiling light or fan.
GETTING READY: LOCK AND LOAD
Now we need to prepare the knife itself.
1. Place the blade in its track and position the blade to line up with the plunge-lock. It is not necessary to be as exact as I was, coming to think of it. :happy:
2. Next, clamp the blade firmly, forward of the track-pins.
3. Make sure your T-6 Torx and screws are handy.
4. Place a pair of stop-pins (borrow some from the shelving in your entertainment center) so they are very low in your knife-jig. The retractor must easily clear them- they will hold the lower frame from zooming backwards when you unclamp the knife. You can wrap a bit of tape around them to avoid scratching the anodizing if you like.
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I'd highly recommend practicing the following steps 1 through 9 skipping steps 3 & 4, (loading and installing the mainspring) until you are comfortable with the process.
The mainspring will explode into 1000 mile-per-hour shrapnel if there is a small gap opened between the two end caps. This is where the spring-tent pays for itself.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION if you do not wear glasses.
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THE STEPS:
1. Remove the plunge-lock from the lower frame and tape it into the top frame from the outside of the frame.
2. Install the plunge-lock return spring into the lower frame.
3. Using your handy-dandy spring-loader, "Load" the main compression spring assembly.
The order of the encapsulator parts, from front to rear are: 1. End cap with large hole. 2. Compression spring open end 3. Spring guide 4. End cap with small hole.
4. Transfer the compressed assembly to the knife, making sure the small-hole cap and spring guide are at the rear as illustrated above.
5. Hold the spring assembly down in its space while you mate the retractor with its' small blade retractor-pin.
6. Press down firmly and pull back on the retractor to keep the blade back, and unclamp the blade.
7. Place the top half of the frame over the bottom frame, first aligning the plunge lock with its return-spring, then angling the retractor so it fits into the track in the upper frame.
Note: On the CFO-II the retractor has a cut-out on one of its sides. This is allows you to angle it sideways so it can fit into the track in the upper frame.
8. As the retractor finds it’s track, the top will click down onto the bottom frame. The plunge-lock will now keep the blade from shooting out. Whew.
9. Keeping downward pressure on the upper frame, insert and moderately tighten a Torx screw near the plunge-lock button and do another on the opposite side. Secure a couple screws at the end.
Breathe.
YOU MADE IT!
Finish installing the rest of the screws and lightly lubricate the blade track. MT recommends either Break Free CLP or Rem-Oil in their latest Terzuola owners manuals.
I have discovered that it is possible to over-tighten the front screws on my CFO-II until the frame can be made too tight for proper deployment. Experiment with your unit until you find a good compromise if your fit is also sensitive. After you’ve got it running smoothly, I’d recommend using BLUE loctite to secure the Torx screws, saving the ones in the front for last.
