shaping firing spring

[Radeo]

A customer of mine has asked me to build a switchblade stiletto. this is my first venture in a leafspring fire mech. I found some leaf spring material that is .070 thick on knifekits.com, and was curious on how to shape it. The description says that it is hardened to 40-45hrc. the knife is going to be a humpback with bolster release, damascus blade and furniture, brass liners, and ivory scales with brass pins

[Bill DeShivs]

If the material is carbon steel, it should be shaped while annealed-then hardened and tempered.
There is a stainless spring steel that you can just bend into shape.

[autoknife]

A customer of mine has asked me to build a switchblade stiletto. this is my first venture in a leafspring fire mech. I found some leaf spring material that is .070 thick on knifekits.com, and was curious on how to shape it. The description says that it is hardened to 40-45hrc. the knife is going to be a humpback with bolster release, damascus blade and furniture, brass liners, and ivory scales with brass pins

This may be a little off subject, but what is the purpose of the humpback if you are making it a bolster release. The hump on the Italian made knives is to release the blade from the open position.

[Radeo]

The reason for the humpback with bolster release goes along with the unstated fact that it will also have a nail-nick. Its purely ascetics. For some reason, he also wants the lock bar and spring to be polished instead of etched damascus. As far as the spring is concerned, the description says carbon stainless steel recommended by the top custom knifemakers

[tr4252]

Isn't .070 a little thin? Sounds like it will be a nice looking knife.

Tom

[Radeo]

I dont know,thats why I'm here. The blade itself is only going to be .100" thick, .6" wide, and 3.75" long. its a smaller knife as far as stilettos go. It thats not adequate, maybe Bill or someone will guide me in the proper direction. I have heard that work hardened springs don't last, so I was planning on staying away from those, but I'm not opposed to them if they are good.

[Bill DeShivs]

I use 1095 steel, the same thickness as the blade & backspring.
The spring should be gently tapered toward the front. I suggest looking at a variety of pictures of knife springs before continuing.
There are nuances that are difficult to convey in print. We will be happy to help in any way we can.

[tedmen]

Hi Bill, is there any particular reason you choose to use 1095 for springs? I ask as I have read mention of 416 S/S and other steels being used for springs. Would of thought there would be one steel considered 'the best' for spring work?

Cheers, Ted.

[Bill DeShivs]

I consider 1095 the best. Easy to heat treat (for me), inexpensive, available, and easy to work.

[john]

Hello Radeo,
Sounds like a cool project. Good luck and post a photo when it's done. On second thought would you consider posting photo's as your project progresses showing us step by step progress?
John

[Radeo]

i deffinately will post a WIP

[john]

Hello Radeo,
Awesome , I love seeing a knife come to life .
Thank you,
John