Carbon Steel

Pushbutton · Post by **Pushbutton** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:00 am

Al was right the andonizing was a good thread so how about another.
When the earlier switches and for that matter the later silver plugs the blade was carbon because they would rust like crazy for a little kid who didn't know how to care for them. My question is what do you think that type of steel was at the time? Name or composition materials?
PB

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 5:52 am

1095, W-1, W-2, and O-1 would all be good guesses and probably in close to that order. I don't mind being corrected on this at all, if someone knows for sure. I'd like to know the answer myself rather than guess. Air hardening steels [A-1 etc] would also be good guesses since they wouldn't need a liquid quench and the container for it.

Post by **tr4252** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 5:55 am

I like your new avatar. I'll do free endorsements if they'll give me some product to test.
I can't locate my Machinery's Handbook at the moment, but in simpler times, "carbon steels" like 1065, 1075, etc. were used for blades and tools a lot, the last 2 digits indicating carbon content. Obviously very little chromium was in the recipe; a content of about 10%-15% is what makes stainless so corrosion resistant.
OK, I found the book. Most of the blade like applications make do with carbon steels such as the above 10XX types, 6150 is listed with the forgings-heat treated area.
I bet someone who knows more about actual knife manufacturing can give a better answer.
TR

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 6:07 am

The 10xx series is always a good choice . Stainless usually starts at 13% chrome. D-2 at 12% is considered "semi stainless" but is fairly rust resistant and more like carbon steel [easy to sharpen, excellent edge holding and quite strong] than most true stainless.

Pushbutton · Post by **Pushbutton** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 6:03 pm

So we can narrow it down but can't pinpoint it. I was prone to go with 0-1 or 1095 but after reading the other answers there is more to choose from. How about this then. What steel back in the 50's and early 60's was the quickest to rust. Thinking back it's almost like I went to bed with a new knife and awoke with a semi stained rusted one. Maybe we can narrow it down working from that angle and since Al has about 60 years on me this question should be a piece of cake for him. Did I ever tell the story about bumping into Al during the Bronze Age? Remind sometime.
PB

mrbigg · Post by **mrbigg** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 8:21 pm

mr PB - that wouldn't have been in the congo would it?

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 11:03 pm

I doubt we can narrow it down much [someone PLEASE prove me wrong].
In the 50s makers were much less likely to reveal the materials they used, other than to use a trademarked term that was really meaningless as far as actual content, but sounded impressive.

Pushbutton · Post by **Pushbutton** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 11:38 pm

Which Congo are you referring to Mr Bigg? Cause if it's the Belgium Congo I can tell you some real funny stories. Are you also familiar with Bob Denard? If not just google him and you will be very familiar.
PB

mrbigg · Post by **mrbigg** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 12:18 am

ok, and your point is...

Pushbutton · Post by **Pushbutton** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 12:41 am

Now why did you have to go and ruin a perfectly good evening by saying that? I hate that sarcastic condesending bullshit. My point is my point.
PB

BennytheBlade · Post by **BennytheBlade** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 2:22 pm

after watching the sandshark steel drum test over and over (and over and over) I really want a knife made of 0-1 as an edc.
Have to look for some makers who still use it regulary.

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 4:37 pm

If O-1 didn't rust so quickly we would have very few knives made from anything else. But if you are really bored you can dip O-1 in water, sit back, and watch it rust. It may take a beer or two and a few smokes but it will happen. It stains even quicker, but once stained it resists rust a little bit better.

Pushbutton · Post by **Pushbutton** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 5:40 pm

If 0-1 rusts that fast then I'll bet that was what was used. I swear I would buy one and when I woke up the next morning it had rust.
PB

mrbigg · Post by **mrbigg** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 7:55 pm

BennytheBlade wrote:after watching the sandshark steel drum test over and over (and over and over) I really want a knife made of 0-1 as an edc.
Have to look for some makers who still use it regulary.

mr benny - i have my eye on one of this fellow's "cadet" knives, made from a single piece of hand forged O-1 tool steel..i have posted this link before, but check out his demo on cutting through regular steel a ways down the page...pictures 6, 7, and 8....

i am on his waiting list for a very special custom damascus neck knife

http://www.littlehenknives.com/Photohosting.html

Vagrant · Post by **Vagrant** » Tue Oct 14, 2003 6:51 am

A stained O-1 blade will resist rust a little better than a shiny one. To intentionally stain it try cutting a onion, tomato, or a steak with steak sauce. Clean and repeat until it no longer seems to stain any more. This is not a good idea on a Display Knife obviously. Other fruits and vegtables my also work and trying one after another may [always clean between attempts] vary the color or texture of the stain[s]. My experience is limited on this and usually accidental so you may find something that is far
superior. Also with the exception of "cold blue" [nothing special] I've relied on natural materials. No reason for this it's just the way it's happened. You might accidently cut something that not only gives a very attractive stain but proves exceptional at resisting rust. "High tech" coatings usually work great for a while [maybe a long time] but sooner or later something manages to get under them and then they blister and peel as the rust forms beneath them.